Free masterclass
Master hooded eyes like a pro.
with Helen Grech, Perfect Pout
Meet Helen
Hi, I’m Helen.
- Makeup artist and educator for almost 30 years
- Founder of Perfect Pout, Melbourne
- Bridal, events, photoshoots and fitness comp glam
- Official glam provider for NBA VIC/TAS
- Teaching clients and artists every week, 1:1 and in groups
The big idea
Hooded eyes aren’t the problem. Your technique might be.
You don’t need a different eye shape. You need the right technique.
Sound familiar?
Which one is you?
- Eyeshadow that disappears when your eyes are open
- Eyeliner that smudges or transfers onto your lid
- Eye makeup that makes your eyes look smaller
- Wings that look crooked or “broken”
What are hooded eyes?
A fold of skin sits over the crease, so less of the lid shows when your eyes are open.
- Very common, natural or with age
- Some people are more hooded on one eye
- Many celebrities and models have them
- Where to place eyeshadow for maximum impact
- How to create lifted, more open-looking eyes
- Common eyeliner and blending mistakes to avoid
- Techniques that work with your unique eye shape
The golden rule
Always apply with your eyes open.
Look straight ahead into the mirror. What you see with your eyes open is what everyone else sees.
Step 1
Prep the lid.
- Use an eye primer to stop creasing and transfer
- Set it with a light dusting of translucent powder
- Hooded lids rub together, so a good base matters even more
Step 2
Find your “new” crease.
- With eyes open, find the spot just above your natural crease, where the hood ends
- That’s where your transition shade goes
- It creates a crease you can see when your eyes are open
Step 3
Shadow placement.
- Transition shade: a soft matte, one or two shades deeper than your skin, on the new crease
- Blend with small “windshield wiper” movements
- Deepen the outer corner in a sideways V, angled up toward the tail of the brow
- Shimmer on the centre of the lid to catch the light and open the eye
Step 4
Create lift.
- Keep the darkest shade on the outer third and blend it up and out, never down
- Brighten the inner corner and under the brow arch
- Keep the lower lash line soft and smudged, not heavy
Step 5
Eyeliner that works.
- Keep liner thin at the lash line, or tightline the upper waterline
- Draw your wing with your eyes open, following the angle of your lower lash line
- Wing breaks over the hood? Try the “bat wing”: fill in the gap so it looks straight with your eyes open
- Use waterproof or long-wear formulas to stop transfer
Step 6
Finish with lashes and brows.
- Always curl your lashes and use a lifting mascara
- Choose wispy, lightweight false lashes, longer on the outer corners
- Lift and set your brows. Groomed brows give the hood more space
Avoid these
Common mistakes.
- Applying shadow with your eyes closed
- Putting your crease colour in your natural crease
- Thick, heavy liner across the whole lid
- Dark shadow all over the lid
- Dragging the outer corner down
- Skipping primer
Quick recap
03New crease above the hood
Q&A
Your questions.
Pop them in the chat.
Keep learning with me
Want to go further?
Private makeup lessons
Learn your own routine, one-on-one or in a small group.
In-studio makeup
Let me do it for your next event.
Free bridal touch-up checklist
Download it at perfectpout.com.au
Book at perfectpout.com.au
Follow @perfectpoutmelbourne
Thank you
Thank you for joining me!
Helen x
